Photo 4. It is inevitable that some The rest of the hull is sound as it has been well cared for. The filled hole ready to be sanded. The repair method is the same.
This Old Hull – Laser Deck Repair with Air Pressure Somewhat housebound after yet another New England snowstorm this winter, I’ve had the chance to work on my 23 year-old Laser hull with decks adjacent to the cockpit so soft and sagging that they seemed to be structurally unsound. You could also pressurize the boat with the exhaust from a vacuum or blower (take out drain plug and second access port if you've got it, so the boat doesn't explode). First never except in an emergency and I will say it again never!!! foredeck1916, June 16, 2006 in Sailing Anarchy. None of them would seriously impact performance, with the exception of eventually the hole in the hull (sinking does tend to slow you down), but not only do we take pride in our sailing but we especially take pride in our boat.
Then use multiple coats of Teflon polish. If you bave any more questions, I'd be happy too answer them through a PM. Apply filler with an old store card or similar, Photo 18. We'll give these a little more attention when we come to paint the hull. Glossary - Photo 19. The boat has lead a long life and the owner just wants to get a few more summer sails off the beach on a lake in Michigan. We had two options at this point. google_ad_height = 90; Here I am using West System with silica Thanks. If you've got the money to do this, then that's fine and we won't judge you for that. You can use gel coat on a big repair, but it easy to sand through the gel coat when you are finishing it. Using a saw blade and or linolium knife, Dremil tool need to cut and scrape as much of the old adhesive out as you can My wife and I planned a sail to Beaufort NC... We picked up a 1972 McKee Craft 14. If you see nothing happen, that is good. Good luck. Use water with wet and dry paper. I suppose it all depends on how bad the crack is and what kind of finish you want. That is a real old boat as they actually started production with hull #100. In general, it should be easy enough to make out what they are talking about and map from US terms to UK - gunnable adhesives/sealants, fibreglass caulk on a problem like this. How is the deck constructed in that area- is there a core or is it all glass and resin? We got a small repair job on a Laser with hull / deck separation anxiety. After building up, the area was sanded flush. The first would be to cut an inspection panel in the deck, make the hole in the hull larger, and properly patch it with a piece of fibreglass matting, and some resin. Really experienced, he renovates 3-4 lasers a winter. The back corner required several applications of filler to build it up. If white spirits are used, be sure to clean off any residue left over. In general, it should be easy enough to make out what they are talking about and map from US terms to UK - gunnable adhesives/sealants, fibreglass So, for the cost of a few afternoons work, a tube of gelcote filler and some sandpaper, we've fixed up quite a lot of imperfections on our boat. I start with 100 grit and work my way to 400. For the surface crazing, you could use actual gelcote, perhaps with some thickening micro glass beads - but we decided not to due to problems with matching the colour of a 20 yr old faded gelcote, but more on that later. The only prep I do is a little tapering all around the chip with sandpaper and an acetone wipe off. They often had leaky hull/deck edges. Most second hand boats these days will have some kind of damage - see if you're up to the job of repairing it with our guide. Hull/Deck Joint Repair. The other suggestions, about prying the crack open with a knife and injecting 3M 5200, or routing out the bad parts with a dremel and injecting thickened epoxy, sound good too. Technically, the inspection panel and fibreglass matting would be the "proper" way to repair a hole in the hull like this, but since it hadn't gone all the way through and was relatively small in a none-load bearing area, we decided that the inspection panel would weaken the deck too much, and would be too much effort, to be a valid compromise. Like above, this technique can also be used to check for leaks all over the whole boat by using a soapy water solution all around the outside and looking for places where air flowing out causes the solution to bubble up. Too much pressure, causing the hull to explode, would be counterproductive. The front of the hull had the typical damage you see on a laser, when it gets dragged up the bank, chips missing, particularly underneath at the nose. Once you sand off the excess, you can check your repair by sraying soapy water on the area and having a partner blow into the stern drain plug. It has a Haarstick sail. The board should feel extremely smooth, even slippery. Boats these days, particularly GRP (glass reinforced fibreglass) boats are made very well, and are easy to repair. The cracks are hard to fill and mostly didn't, although some larger cracks picked up the filler. I sure hope there is no rotten wood.
Hi everyone, I have a 1970 Cal 29, and was wondering what the proper repair of a hull to deck joint would be.
Don't tighten fittings too much, Photo 16. Got a Question? The boat has ... Our Dyer Dinghy didn't have a decent set of oars.
Any sanded areas should then be cleaned down with either acetone or white spirits to clean off any dust and residue. Unfortunately a previous owner made the decision to overtighten the fittings for the shrouds, and for the bullseyes/fairleads on the deck. Mask around the filled area to keep epoxy off other parts of the blade. 5200 will be more flexible and West will cure faster soak in better but be a … I picked up a beautiful deck winch at Oriental's Marine Consignment store. I was young and beat the crap out of the gunwales and bow, so it leaked like a sieve.
Step 5: Clamp the area firmly. away at this time. All Rights Reserved. Club Finder - By Since this is not an area which takes any degree of structural strain, this filler should stay in well (unless it receives a substantial bash). clamps in place until the epoxy has completely cured. A potential problem here is that a big glob of epoxy generates a lot of heat. The hatch lid that came with the boat is intact. It is in great shape but is e... We have been working on old boat issues and sailing when we can. Permalink. Dude, the oldest known hull is like 36 that is a dry trainer or something like that. Sailing, Skiing, travelling with family, support boat 470 fleet, cruising and racing on the Gulf of Maine and beyond, old web photo essay on installing Laser mast-step repair kit. When we examined the gunwhales, there was already some not so good filling in place - this was sanded out or sanded flush where needed, and new filler applied to make the gunwhale a uniform shape and remove sharp edges that were there.